Why does a necklace break?
Why does a bracelet or necklace break and sling beads across the countryside? Because “Life Happens”.
Whether the crimping was done perfectly or sloppy, the bottom line is that usually, either the crimp or the stringing wire was the weakest link in the piece. So, we got heavier gauge jump rings, used split rings, used larger diameter stringing wire, and bigger (or double) crimps. That solved the problem, right? Nope. Life still happens. Bracelets and necklaces still break open and you hear beads skittering across the floor, much to your cat’s amusement.
The answer is not necessarily to make everything bigger and stronger, but to assemble your jewelry smarter. Over the years, we (my wife & I) have developed/learned a few techniques that have really paid off. Here are a few:
Stranded Pieces:
- Always use a 2mm crimp tube. It gives you more holding area. Also, most crimping pliers are 2mm wide, which works out nicely when aligning the crimp tube in the pliers.
- Before you fold the crimp tube (first step in crimping), make sure that the 2 wire segments are not crossed inside of the tube. When you have completed the first step, you should have a wire on each side of the “V”. The easiest way to accomplish this is to put a bead between the crimp and the ring.
- Crimp to a closed jump ring on both ends of the piece. To connect the clasp (or extension chain), use a medium to light weight open oval jump ring. We never use round open jump rings (except for maille work).
Oval Jump Rings (open): The problem with round, open jump rings is that the opening will always tend to hang-up on whatever it is attached to and slip open. Then you have to repair the piece (usually restringing). With an oval open jump ring, the opening is on the long axis of the oval. No matter how you try, the opening cannot hang-up on the attached piece.
Closed Jump Rings: Should a customer snag a bracelet or necklace (and everyone has at one time or another); the medium to light weight open oval jump ring should be what pops open. By crimping to a closed jump ring, the stranded beads stay intact and you don’t have beads scattered on the floor. The repair is to simply replace the open oval jump ring, instead of having to restring the piece.
Allen
Cindale Beads
Smithfield, NC
www.cindale.com
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